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This is a guest blog by Tove Ahlström, sustainability expert and partner to Nexer.
The new Radical Retail report from Nexer and Kairos Future has just been released – and yes, it’s both fascinating and depressing.
It opens with the line: “Sustainability is the new normal.”
I nearly choke on my coffee. Bullshit. I wish it were true – but we are nowhere near sustainability being the new normal.
Still, the report sparks important reflections and inspires with positive examples – rental models, repair and upcycling initiatives, and supply chain improvements. But let’s be honest: retail still accounts for a vast share of the world’s carbon emissions and puts enormous strain on ecosystems. And it’s not slowing down anytime soon.
We’ve already produced enough clothing to last six generations. In the EU, we buy 19 kilos of textiles and throw away 11 kilos per person, every single year. So why do we keep going? Every fibre of my being screams in frustration. And at the same time… yes, I too buy clothes sometimes. We’re all caught in the system.
So what would it take for retail to become truly regenerative – not just “less harmful,” but a force that actively rebuilds communities and ecosystems?
Here’s what I believe is needed:
– Less retail. Sorry, but we don’t need endless overproduction of clothes and stuff. The industry must shrink.
– Closer production. Smaller collections, better working conditions, and manufacturing closer to where products are sold.
– No new materials. We already have all the cotton, polyester, and wool we need. Upcycling is the word.
– Longer lifespans. We must use, care for, and repair what we already have – and make repairs the standard, not the exception.
Last week, I visited the launch of FashionLoop at DoTank in Marievik, Stockholm. They rent out upcycled garments created by designers passionate about sustainability – transforming old curtains, jeans, and scraps into unique pieces. Watching their work come alive is nothing short of magical – meaningful both for the creators and for us who wear their designs.
But it’s tough. They face resistance from the industry, and their business model barely breaks even. That’s not sustainable – and it makes me furious.
Read the full report here: Radical Retail Report
So – help me out.
I’m running out of ideas. What can we do to make retail truly regenerative?
What systemic changes are needed? Which bold, radical solutions could actually turn this ship around?
Let’s talk about this – and act.
I collaborate with Nexer on these challenges, so that together we can push for real change.
Tove Ahlström is a leading voice in sustainability with deep experience in strategy, governance, and regulatory compliance. She’s the founder of Just Sustainable AB and an EU Climate Pact Ambassador, known for helping companies turn sustainability ambitions into measurable results. Tove has previously led the think tank Global Utmaning and held senior roles in both the private and public sectors.